Food Wines for Summertime: Introducing Philippe Grisard and the wines of the Savoie

The region of Savoie in the French Alps may bring to mind chalets and beautiful mountains, the clang of cow bells, wildflowers in summer, skiing and snow in winter, but for oenophiles, it is also known for its small, but exquisite wine production. Philippe Grisard’s wines (all organic, hand-harvested production) are no exception, and it’s been a while since I’ve been this excited about some wines. Philippe is guardian of some of the oldest varieties of vines in the Savoie. He has replanted Mondeuse blanche (the Mondeuse we are familiar with is red) and Persan on the steep slopes of his vineyard.

Philippe Grisard, Premice, Savoie Blanc Cru Cruet, 2019 (organic) – This wine is made from 100% Jacquère in stainless steel tank. At 11.5 % alcohol, it’s a beautiful wine to start a meal or for lunch in summertime. Look for flinty and floral notes classic of Jacquère, with lemon and peach. $$18.99

I flipped for the Altesse, Souveraine, 2019 – My favorite of all, it is made from 100% Altesse, also known as Roussette (“reddish” in French) because of the reddish tinge the berries take on prior to harvest, and goes into the production of Roussette de Savoie A.O.P. wines such as this. Notes of Fresh almonds, bergamot, peach and quince, but this wine will age and take on nutty, earthy aromas. $21

Roussane, Opulent, Chignin Bergeron, 2019 - %100 Roussane with, as the name suggests, opulent notes of honey, apricot,marzipan, mango, herbs, and a round, Roussaney texture. $29.99

Mondeuse blance, Originelle, Savoie Blanc, 2019 – 100% Mondeuse Blanche. Mondeuse Blanche is the DNA mother of Syrah, Viognier, and Mondeuse Noire. Rare, very small production. Peach, pear, exotic fruits, roasted nuts. $36.99

Mondeuse Noire, Obstinée, 2018 - !00% Mondeuse Noire, stainless steel tank. Mondeuse is becoming a cult favorite with wine geeks. If you like Beaujolais yet want to try something different, Mondeuse is your wine. Lots of fruit up front, good acid, fresh, lowish alcohol. Excellent food wine. Look for sour cherry, pepper, and plum. $18.99

Mondeuse Noire, Constance, Savoie Cru Arbin, 2019 – Arbin refers to a sub-appellation within the Vin de Savoie A.O.P. An although, Arbin is a tiny region (it sits just east of Apremont and Montmélian) it’s arguably the best location to grow quality Mondeuse that ages well. Stewed fruit notes with cracked black pepper and violets. $24.99

Persan, Fougueux, 2019 – 100% Persan. Very small production; difficult to grown. Firm, dense tannins, smoke notes, with acidity, blackberry, violet, and spice. Age or pair with food. $38.99

Kay Pfaltz