Rich Reds for Shortened Days
While the days are in fact growing longer, those imperceptible changes go unnoticed in January and the first glimpses of spring may still feel like lightyears away. And yet there is something beautiful about bare tree branches against a white-grey sky; you see the contours in a way not possible in summer’s midst. When the temperature drops as the last chards of sunlight disappear, there is equally something comforting about plunking down in a cozy home with family and a well-earned glass of hearty red. And I think a meal never tastes as good as when you’ve been out toiling in a biting wind. Those wishing escape from the welter of modern humanity may reach for the remote, and at Basics we’ve certainly a bounty of “vins de sofa” for just such purpose, every flick of the remote and Netflix series—wines that also pair surprisingly well with log fires and good books. For winter weather workers and escape artists alike, we offer the following cheerful and hearty quaffs.
La Ferla, Nero d’Avola, 2018 – Nero d’Avola, the black grape of Avola, is Sicily’s most important red wine grape, and also called Calabrese. Good acidity and flavor, with notes of black pepper, licorice, and chili pepper. Pair with game or spicy stews, lentils or sautéed shitakes.
Contrade, Negroamaro, 2018 – Negroamaro from Puglia takes its name from both Latin and Greek (niger/negro meaning “black” and mavros meaning “dark”). Round and smooth with notes of prune, blackberry, and plum; excellent paired with pizza and pastas.
Chapoutier, Petite Ruche, Crozes-Hermitage, 2016 (organic) – Everything you want in a wine: neither too bold nor too timid; neither too acidic nor too hot. Crozes-Hermitage offers delicate floral aromas and has a softer edge than its more muscular neighbors in Cornas and Hermitage. Beautiful balance with round fruit notes of cherry and berries with Chapoutier’s signature “non-signature”—in other words, each wine tasting of its own local terroir and like that year’s vintage. Chapoutier’s an impressive estate that’s been putting out understated, elegant wines since 1808. Hard to believe such wine is 100% Syrah, so far removed is it from the jammy, fruit-bombs of some. This Crozes will pair seamlessly with an array of foods from chicken and rabbit to creamy cheeses and vegetable stir-fries.
When buying wine, there’s no need to raid the retirement funds, as the above exemplify, but if you’re looking for a marquee player, this Châteauneuf-du-Pape ticks all the boxes. Domaine Berthet Rayne, Cuvée Cadiac, 2016 (organic) – A high-quality, certified organic estate that has been making wine in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and elsewhere in the Rhone since the 1920s. The Cuvée Cadiac is an unusual blend of 50/50 Grenache/Mourvèdre and you get all the luscious, seductive fruit notes of the Grenache: wild raspberry, blackberry, black cherry, with a backbone of Mourvèdre: leather, espresso, chocolate, earth, and tobacco. Pair with bold dishes such as game or rich, hearty stews. Maybe light the fire, skip the Netflix and reach instead for Hugo, Balzac, Zola or Proust.
Happy New Year to all.
Kay Pfaltz