Thanksgiving in the Time of Coronavirus

There’s a certain tarnished glow to the close of day in November that has as much to do with trees cloaked in golden hues as it does with a feeling of hearth and home: log fires crackle, aromas waft from the kitchen. It’s a time to turn inward. Leaves blow then fall to ground, eventually becoming earth; turtles and frogs hibernate, and some humans do, too. It’s a time to gather with loved ones, an innovative dance in our brave, new world. For some it’s a time for cooking—for others, a time of indulging, culminating at month’s end with the gastronome’s most beloved, or most despised, extravaganza, Thanksgiving.

Once again, we offer a few tried and true Thanksgiving picks for pairing with everything from turkey to tofu and even great Aunt Zelda’s marshmallow sweet taters.

Beginning the afternoon with sparkling wine offers not only elegance to the affair but also wisdom, as it tingles the taste buds, revving up the stomach’s gastric juices for what lies ahead. Sparkling wine will pair with most appetizers, excelling particularly well with salty starters like salami, chips, or nuts.

Try: DaCapo, Cuvée JPR, rosato, 2012 (organic) – At a fraction the cost of vintage champagne, this Italian sparkling rosé is a deal. Made with champagne grapes, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, in the méthode champenoise, it carries all the champagne yeasty, toasted brioche aromas, yet nevertheless lets you know it’s Italian. With a nose of soft red berries and dried figs, it’s complex and cerebral enough to get the gang talking. Serve with the appetizers or throughout the feast as it’ll pair just fine with all the fixins.

Beaujolais: Yes, you can bring out the Nouveau, a wine that oozes conviviality and laughter. After all, celebrating gratitude is what this gathering is all about. But you might do well to have on hand a few bottles of “serious” Beaujolais, any of the ten crus, all of which are food wines par excellence. Or try: Château Cambon, Beaujolais, 2018 (organic) – Old vines give extra heft but still the same delicious fruit from an exceptional producer—perhaps the perfect wine for turkey, and not only because of the cranberry notes. Or eschew Gamay with this lovely, soft, and light 100% Cinsault: Domaine des Homs, Coteaux de Peyriac, L’Amandier, 2018 (organic) – Lots of juicy red fruit notes, and maybe you can pick up a whiff of almonds (“amandier” means almond tree)…power of suggestion? When pairing with a wide variety of different foods—the mainstay of Thanksgiving—opt for low-alcohol, high-acid, lighter wines. The food will thank you and so too your guests.

            Serving Indian or Thai for Thanksgiving? Fratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno, Langhe Nascetta, 2019 (organic) – Nascetta is one of the great, rare Italian whites from Italy’s Langhe. Only a handful of producers farming on about 20 hectares. Floral and complex with mineral, citrus, and exotic fruit flavors.

Kay Pfaltz